More Hilltop Towns and a little Breaking & Entry

After two peaceful nights in Bruniquel we’re moving on today. We emptied and filled our tanks before hitting the road.

First stop was Penne, a tiny hilltop village that consists of a single street which ends at a castle perched precariously atop a rocky outcrop - quite an amazing sight! We wandered around the village, took some photos and then returned to Kiki for coffee (no comment!).

Moving on we followed the river valley and then via some narrow winding country lanes (which reminded us of Dartmoor) approached our next destination: the village of Najac. We were heading for a parking area situated just the other side of the village. However, as we approached the bridge before the village, we discovered it had a 2.2m width limit - Kiki is 2.35m....

We stopped in a convenient picnic area by the river and had lunch whilst considering our options. The Park4night app showed a paid Aire de Camping Car only 900m away on our side of the river. We normally avoid paid parking but decided to make an exception this time because electricity is included in the €6 fee which means that Emma can dry her hair properly - apparently that’s very important!

Arriving at the Aire, we pay at the machine but it didn’t give out a ticket. After pressing all the buttons, moving Kiki forwards and back and scratching our heads we then discover that you need the number off the ticket to open the barrier. I went and had a chat with a couple who were already inside. After a minute of my bad French they switched into English - apparently the machine worked when they arrived yesterday. They kindly tried their number on the entry keypad but it wouldn’t work. Then they tried it on the exit keypad and got the message “drive to the barrier”. I spotted a steel pole and laid it over the exit sensor, sure enough the barrier opened and we drove in. Now we’re wondering how we’re both going to get out tomorrow....

We parked up, plugged Kiki in and decided to walk into the village. There is a convenient pedestrian bridge right next to the Aire which leads through a campsite and up to the village. Najac is a single street, perched on a narrow ridge with houses clinging to each side. Towering above the town is a castle - another most impressive sight. We wandered around the village, entering at the far end and walking back along the length of the street. We returned to Kiki the long way, via the narrow 13th Century bridge we’d avoided driving over earlier.

When we were in the village I spotted an email address on the Marie. When we returned to Kiki, I sent them an urgent email explaining our situation. Maybe they’ll turn up in the morning to rescue us... stay tuned!

Shortly after we got back I noticed another MH approaching the barrier. I went over and tried to explain in my “best” French the problem with the ticket machine. It turned out that they too were English living in France! Closer inspection of the barrier revealed it to be held on with a few Allen screws - a couple of minutes with a 6mm Allen key and the barrier was no longer a problem! They did buy a ticket however to keep legitimate.

We spent happy hour or so swapping motor-homing stories with the couple, who it turned out were originally from Dawlish in Devon - small world!

After supper we settled down for the evening.

Hiking Day

We had planned to move on today but by coffee time (yep real coffee) the early morning mist burnt off leaving a beautiful blue sky. We decided instead to do a 10.5km hike.

Starting from the tourist office in Bruniquel, the hike dropped down to and across the river before climbing gently up a wooded valley on the other side.

On the outskirts of the village we explored a subterranean wash house, the structure of which we spotted yesterday from high above in the village. This unusual feature was several meters underground and reached by a rough staircase cut into the rocks. Rather bizarrely, about halfway through the hike, we came across another wash house. This was literally in the middle of nowhere and we were at a loss to explain who would have used it! The hike eventually reached high ground where we stopped for lunch before descending another valley back to the river and thence the village.

Returning to Kiki, we spent an hour or so sitting outside in the sun, before our evening meal and settling in for the evening.

Another Aqueduct and Victualling Day

After a peaceful night we woke to a misty morning. We emptied and filled at the Flot Bleu before heading to Moissac and then a few km further along the river where we parked up next to another aqueduct.

We climbed up to the canal and walked across the aqueduct. It was quiet and peaceful walking beside the canal so we continued until we reached the outskirts of Moissac where we checked out the boats moored in the marina. We worked out - by adding up the distances displayed on and between the locks - that we’d walked over 4 km by the time we got back to Kiki.

After coffee - er no.... Emma had still forgotten my coffee filter so we made do with water and chocolate, we drove to Leclerc in Montauban. Here we managed to purchase a coffee filter (yay - perhaps he’ll stop moaning now!) and filled up Kiki’s LPG tanks. After lunch we drove to Lidl where we did our weekly shopping.

It was still grey and misty so we decided to head to Bruniquel where there is reportedly a very nice Aire de Camping Car. Sure enough, we arrived to find a nicely terraced parking area and a handful of other MH’s. As time went on, more arrived until there were at least a dozen!

We walked up to the village - another of France’s most beautiful - and spent a happy hour or so wandering around the tiny streets surrounded by pretty timber framed buildings. The village sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river and perched at the very top are two medieval castles.

We returned to Kiki for our evening meal and settled down for the night.

Aqueducts and Hilltop Towns

Refreshed after a good nights sleep and with the sun shining, we hit the road this morning heading into Agen. We found parking (thanks to our trusty Park4Night app) right next to the river Garonne and only a short stroll from the aqueduct which was our destination.

A spiral staircase leads (via an inexplicably locked gate which we climbed over) to a pedestrian bridge across the river and a little further on, a rough track led us up to the canal. The aqueduct, built in 1850’s carries the canal de Garonne over the river Garonne. This 580m long, very impressive structure was built in just three years! We walked across the aqueduct and looped back through the town to Kiki.

After coffee (oh no, Emma’s still forgotten my coffee filter).... erm water and chocolate we set of towards Auvillar which is know as one of the loveliest hilltop villages in France.

We found the dedicated visitor parking in the middle of the village (thanks again to the app) and went walkabouts. Auvillar is a very pretty little village. In the middle of the main square we came across a circular corn exchange which has Tuscan columns and some original corn measuring equipment. This interesting structure is surrounded by beautiful timber framed arcade houses. Set high above the river there is also a great panoramic view from the site of the old castle.

Back to Kiki for lunch and then we headed to St Nicolas de la Grave where we’re stopping for the night. This is another small hilltop village set high  above the Garonne river. We found the Aire de Camping Car and parked for the night. This afternoon we walked around the village and checked out the old chateau (now the Marie) which has an original tower attributed to Richard Coeur de Lion who passed through here on his return from the crusades in the late 12th Century.

On the Road Again - Perigueux to Agen (almost)

After having been at home since our return from Greece in October we have decided to take a roadtrip in France.

We had planned to leave mid February but were slightly delayed as Kiki failed her CT (French equivalent of the MOT). This meant I had to purchase and fit a new wheel bearing. Easier said than done - Kiki’s no lightweight so her wheel bearings are substantial. Out came the big tools and after only a little blood letting (bruised knuckles) the steering arm complete with hub was free. A trip to the local garage where the old bearing was pressed out and the new one fitted. Reverse the disassembly (as Mr Haynes so often says) and Bob’s your uncle.

So we set out ridiculously early this morning - up at 6am and on the road an hour later. Why so early you ask? Aha - first stop is Perigueux where we parked in the Aire de Camping Car (no charge as it’s out of season) and headed to the Dordogne Administration office where we had appointments for our French resident permits. These important cards, when they eventually arrive, will allow us to live permanently in France (post Brexit). So photos left, fingerprints taken and parents names given (French beaurocracy at its finest) we returned to Kiki for coffee. At this point Emma realised that she hadn’t packed my coffee filter - so no coffee for me....

We headed off towards Agen, stopping en-route in a picnic area for lunch. We have now stopped for the night in a tiny Aire de Camping Car at St Hilaire-de-Lusignan, which is a few km west of Agen. We squeezed Kiki into a space as far away from the road as possible with a view of the river and went for a short walk around the village. Back for dinner and we settled in for an early night.